Showing posts with label Korea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Korea. Show all posts

On the Move

At the end of January, our belongings were boxed up, our car was shipped out, our apartment was emptied, our goodbyes were said, and we moved out of South Korea.

Preparing to move was stressful and tiring, but then again, what move isn't?  We had a lot to do and put in many late nights trying to get it all done.  Moving is a great time to evaluate the things that you own and toss or donate what you no longer want or need.  After completing that task, we had to separate our remaining belongings into three groups: things we would take with us in suitcases on the plane, a small shipment of things that would arrive quickly by air, and the rest that would take months shipped by sea.

The day that the movers came was insane.  There were about five Korean men who came in to pack our things.  They were amazing.  They were quick, efficient, and took care wrapping everything.  They came with piles of packing paper, boxes of tape, and huge sheets of cardboard that they bent, cut, and folded into custom boxes.  Half of our packaged things had the contents written in English, while the other half had them written in Korean.  It's going to be a fun surprise opening the Korean-marked boxes :)

Just when the movers were finishing up the packing, the new apartment tenants showed up.  They thought that we had already moved out so they came with some of their things and had the rest being delivered that afternoon!  We talked to our rental manager, they talked to theirs, and there was simply miscommunication on every end.  So the new tenants started moving their things in while our movers started moving our stuff out and that's when our hired cleaning crew showed up!  A crew of women started scurrying around cleaning whatever space they could find that wasn't taken up by boxes.  Just when we thought things couldn't get more crowded, the new tenants' rental managers all showed up!  At least they were helpful and started to assist the cleaners and movers.  There were almost 20 people in the apartment all at once - it was CRAZY!  We learned later that after our movers left, the cleaning crew managed to finish just as the new tenants' large shipment of belongings arrived.  They moved in that same night!


Goodbye to our great apartment in the Lotte Castle apartment complex!  We really enjoyed living there.


We had a total of 4 large suitcases, 2 carry-ons, and 1 dog crate to leave Korea with.  Luckily some of our friends lent us their large vehicle and another friend drove us in it to the airport.  Gotta say, one of the best things about our year in Korea was the friends we made :)


Dulce is a great traveler in cars and on boats so we know she has no problems in airplanes.  Her travel crate is spacious and comfortable.  She wasn't anxious at all in the airport.



Our flight took off at 7:30pm.  We flew over brightly-lit Seoul on our way out. 


Our destination?  HAWAII!  We had a direct flight to our new home.  We will be stationed on the island of Oahu in Hawaii for the next three years.  That's a pretty good assignment to get :)


The flight was about 7 hours long.  We were excited to try out our Christmas presents to ourselves, new Bose Noise Cancelling Headphones.  They are incredible - just switch them on and all noise disappears.  They really made the flight much more enjoyable.


We were fed two meals on the flight: a light dinner not long after take-off and breakfast a couple hours before landing.


We flew East, into the beautiful sunrise of a new day.


Our first glimpse of Hawaii!


Aloha!  We arrived in Honolulu at 7:30am on the same day that we left Korea.  We literally had two Saturdays this week!  Not a bad way to start off our island living adventure :)


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“There is no moment of delight in any pilgrimage like the beginning of it.”
~Charles Dudley Warner

Our Year in Korea Reviewed

This is it!  We were stationed here in Korea for a one-year assignment and that year has now come to an end.  It is time to move on to an amazing new location and an exciting new chapter in our lives.  For the most part, I loved living in Korea and I will always cherish the great times we had, the amazing things we've seen and places we've been, the wonderful new friends we've met, and the memories that we've made.  We have no doubt that someday we will return to visit, to shop, to tour, and hopefully to adopt :)

I wanted this final Korea post to sum up our year, let you know our perspective of the good and bad aspects of living here, and offer some useful things to know if you plan on coming here yourself.

Highlights from our year:

Things about Korea that we loved:

Things about Korea that we didn't love:
  • Weather (brutally cold winters, excruciatingly hot summers, monsoon season, yellow dust)
  • In restaurants, everyone's food comes out at different times
  • Restaurants have TINY napkins
  • Korea in general is a dirty place with lots of litter and garbage because...
  • There is a complete lack of public garbage cans
  • Hotels supply towels and bath mats but no wash rags
  • The language barrier is frustrating
  • Squatty potties (there is a technique to this that is worth learning!)
  • Washing machine and dryer combo machines (everything is often left damp and wrinkled)
  • Speed bumps and bad roads
  • Many areas smell really bad, especially in the summer
  • Driving (you must constantly watch for others not following the traffic rules)
  • Lack of beer variety
  • Many older Koreans (though not all) are often pushy and rude
  • Apartment living can get claustrophobic after a while
  • Korean's un-rational fear of dogs
  • Blatant racism toward different people of different races (not always, but it is there)
  • Commonly seen Juicy Girls and prostitution
  • Air pollution, especially the Yellow Dust in the spring
  • Parking spaces that are only the exact width of your car
  • Having to use plug adapters and voltage transformers

Good things to know if you are moving to or visiting here:
  • An iPhone or other smart phone is invaluable because of the maps, city guides, and translation apps
  • Don't drink the water (not that it's dirty, it just has tons of chemicals in it to make it clean)
  • Plugs are different and so is the voltage, adapters and converters are required
  • Be prepared for ALL types of weather - seriously
  • Some things are cheaper than in the United States and some are way more expensive
  • You can find most anything you need in Korea, but not always the brands you know
  • Clothing and shoe sizes are limited (larger sizes are not available everywhere)
  • Tipping is not customary or expected
  • Do not ask "yes or no" questions because Koreans will always say yes no matter what
  • It is acceptable to bargain in the markets
  • Pay for things with Korean Won or credit cards to avoid getting overcharged
  • A T-Money Card is a reloadable card you can use to pay for buses, subways, and some taxis
  • Military base taxis expect payment in US Dollars
  • It's worth it to travel first class on the bullet train
  • Hiking is one of Korea's favorite pastimes so the hiking trails are amazing and well-maintained
  • It is acceptable to show a lot of leg but not acceptable to show your shoulders and back.
  • Koreans don't like sunshine - pale skin is considered healthier and more beautiful
  • Always look for toilet paper before using the toilet - sometimes it is outside the stalls
  • There is a technique to using the squatty potties correctly
  • Korean is a difficult language to learn but learning to pronounce the Korean alphabet is not difficult and is very helpful when traveling
  • Keep an open mind and embrace the new culture you are immersed in :)


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"Embracing diversity is one adventure after another, 
opening new paths of discovery that connect an understanding to
caring, listening, and sharing with others who are different than ourselves." 
~April Holland

Jeju Island

In January, we took a long weekend trip to Jeju Island.  Jeju Island is a volcanic island that is part of South Korea, just off the southern coast.  It is referred to as "the Hawaii of Korea" due to it's volcanic origin and semi-tropical climate.  There are palm trees, an abundance of volcanic rocks that are used as fences, one large city with an airport, and many smaller towns filled with colorful houses.  It is also referred to as "Honeymoon Island" because it is the most popular honeymoon location in South Korea.



How did we get to Jeju?  There is a ferry boat available for travel to the island but we chose to fly from Seoul on Eastar Jet Airlines.  There are a few different airlines that fly to Jeju but Eastar Airlines was the cheapest - only 110,000 won (about $98) round trip per person.  Our Eastar jet was comical.  There was zero leg room, there were stars and airplanes painted on the ceiling, and there was a bar/lounge painted on the wall.  We were the only non-Koreans on the flight so we know that the flight instructions given in English were solely for us.  The flight was only about an hour long.


On the plane, we sat next to an older Korean man who was excited to talk to us.  His English was broken but understandable.  We learned he was 76 years old and was a pilot in the Korean army in the late 1960's until a car accident took his sight in one eye.  Since then he has lived on Jeju as a tangerine farmer.  He was so sweet to chat with and helped us secure our rental car when we landed.  He gave us his phone number and told us to call him one day so that he could take us to dinner.  He seemed harmless so we did actually call him.  We met up and toured the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall with him and then he treated us to a fresh sushi dinner at a little seafood restaurant owned by a friend.  Meeting him was such a serendipitous event and an added treat to our trip :)


We rented a car online from Budget for our stay on the island.  It took a little while to find the Budget office when we arrived because it was in a small bus!  It looked like there was a new rental car building being built at the airport, but for now all the rental companies worked out of buses in the parking lot.


Being that Jeju is the honeymoon destination of Korea, it has some huge and luxurious resorts.  Those large resorts also have large prices.  We opted to stay at "the cheap hotel next to the expensive resorts." We weren't expecting much with that description but we were very pleasantly surprised.  Our hotel was The Suites Hotel and is situated next to The Shilla and Lotte Hotel resorts.  The Suites was a great hotel that was very clean with large rooms and bathrooms, marble floors in the lobby, an intimate lounge area to enjoy drinks and appetizers, a large buffet area with a breakfast every morning, and every room comes with a free handmade pizza!  One night we walked over the The Shilla and enjoyed an amazing seafood buffet and then watched an outdoor jazz concert by their pool.


One of the most common sites on Jeju Island are the Dolhareubangs statues.  These statues are carved from volcanic rock and range in size up to 10 feet tall.  They are believed to have been around since the 1750's but no one seems to know for sure what the origin of the statues is.  Some believe the statues offer protection against evil spirits and diseases.  Others believe they encourage fertility due their phallic appearance.  Whatever their purpose, they have become the official symbol of Jeju and are a popular souvenir item for Jeju visitors.


These two were a little different that the others.  The one on the left is flipping us off!  The one on the right looks embarrassed that he's naked :)


Another common sight on the island is speed cameras.  The highways in Korea are not patrolled by police like they are in the United States.  Instead, there are speed cameras on the highways that take your picture if you speed past them and you get sent a ticket in the mail.  The funny thing is, there is always a warning sign that there is a camera coming up so you have time to slow down!  In Jeju, these speed cameras were everywhere!  Our GPS unit was warning us of them literally every two to five minutes.  It's a little overkill and a lot annoying.


There are many touristy spots on the island and since we were tourists, we stopped at quite a few.  One of the first we stopped at was a Ripley's Believe It or Not that was close to our hotel.  Ripley's Museums are always just a bit cheesy but we had fun wasting some time there :)


There is a Chocolate Museum on Jeju that is supposedly one of the "World's Top 10 Best Chocolate Museums in the World".  We saw Chocolate Land next to Ripley's so we stopped in.  We quickly found out that Chocolate Land is NOT the Chocolate Museum.  Chocolate Land is a tiny "museum" displaying different chocolates from all over the world.  This place was a joke and not worth going to.  At least we found a classic "not quite right" example - the peanut M&M character is yellow, Korea, not red!


Near Ripley's and Chocolate Land there is also a Teddy Bear Museum.  This museum features teddy bears from all over the world with some depicted in famous scenes such as the Mona Lisa and the Last Supper.  We are not big teddy bear fans so we opted not to tour the museum.  We saw two large teddy bears in Chocolate Land and that was good enough for us :)


In the city of Jeju, we walked through the bustling shopping areas of the Dongmun Market Place and the Jungang Underground Shopping Center.  These two shopping areas are next to each other, one above ground and one under ground.  The Dongmun had a lot of food for sale with some random souvenirs and household goods.  The Jungang primarily had stores selling clothing, shoes, and accessories.


Jeju, the honeymoon destination, isn't shy about sex.  One popular tourist destination is Loveland, an outdoor erotic sculpture park featuring over 100 sculptures of humans in various sexual positions.  We chose not to go to Loveland but instead went to the Museum of Health & Sex.  This museum contains statues from all over the world, photos and videos, artwork, erotic toys and products, evolution of sanitary products and birth control, pregnancy development, and much more.  The museum claims that its purpose is to educate, which it does, but it also provides some great entertainment ;)


Jeju Art Park Museum is a large outdoor sculpture park that you could spend hours exploring.  It was a peaceful well-maintained park in a natural setting with paths winding through the woods.  There was an eclectic collection of sculptures from abstract to modern.  There seemed to be a large number of erotic sculptures which isn't surprising on an island covered in phallic statutes with multiple sex museums.


There are many beautiful waterfalls on Jeju Island.  Pictured below is the Cheonjeyeon Waterfall and the Cheonjiyeon Waterfall.  The Cheonjeyeon Waterfall had multiple different waterfalls that could be seen by following a hiking path made of many stairs.  The Cheonjiyeon Waterfall was an easy walk on a wide paved path with some souvenir shops at the start of it.


The Manjang Cave, or Manjanggul Lava Tubes, was an awesome sight to see.  Manjang Cave is the one of the longest lava tubes in the world.  A lava tube is a conduit or tunnel through which lava once flowed. The evidence of lava flow was very apparent and well-preserved.  The floor of the cave that you walk on is actual hardened lava.  The cave is the same cool temperature year round making it an especially great place to stop if you visit Jeju in the heat of the summer.


We drove along the beautiful coastline for a while.  The water was an amazing shade of blue.


Seongsan Ilchulbong, also known as Sunrise Peak, is a volcanic crater on the east coast of the island.  It is the first spot in Jeju to greet the morning sun and is one of Jeju's premiere landmarks.  For a small fee, you can climb a hiking trail that goes to the peak but you are not allowed to go down into the crater itself.  We didn't hike the peak but we did admire it from a nearby beach :)



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"A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving."
~Lao Tzu

Tansu Step Chest

Johnnie and I didn't have very much furniture before we came here.  All that we have in storage back in the States is a couch, love seat, coffee table, and a full size bed.  To Korea, all we brought with us is a queen bed, two old dressers, and a console table.  We compare it to living like college students :)

While we've been in Korea, we finally purchased some amazing furniture pieces that make us feel like grown-ups.  For example, we bought a dining room table and chairs.  Not a cheap one just to use, but a really nice one that we plan on having for the rest of our lives.  Thanks to our informative friends here, we found some great off-the-beaten-path furniture and antique stores and bought some beautiful wooden furniture that makes our house look more like a home.

One of my favorite pieces that we bought is the "stair step cabinet".  It's officially called a Japanese Tansu Step Chest.  These are a very common sight in the furniture and antique stores around here.


The cabinet has many doors, drawers, and sliding panels.  Some of them have discrete and clever locking mechanisms.


The cabinet is actually made up of three pieces.  The front and the back of the cabinet are identical.  The drawers can be pushed or pulled through either side.  This allows for the cabinet to "step down" in either direction, work as a room divider, or be displayed in different arrangements.


Alternative arrangement #1

Alternative arrangement #2


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“A house is made of walls and beams; a home is built with love and dreams.”
~William A Ward

Running Cold

I am a runner.  I love to run but I hate cold weather.  The winters in Korea are brutally cold so I have barely gone running outside for the past three months.  Instead, I've been working out in the fitness center in our apartment complex.  I haven't done much running because I hate running long distances on a treadmill.  I recently really started to miss the benefits of running so I had to decide, which do I hate more:  running on a treadmill or cold weather.

There have a been a few days in the past couple weeks when the weather was actually above freezing (only by one or two degrees) when I decided to venture out for a long run.  As you can see from the photo below, the only skin showing on my body was part of my forehead once I was bundled up.  The awesome face mask is a Korean treasure I picked up from a street vendor :)  I seriously felt like a little kid putting on layers upon layers of clothing to go play outside in the snow.  It all works well keeping me warm and comfortable on my long runs.


There is a little "respect game" that older Koreans seem to like to play on sidewalks.  If two people are moving toward each other on a sidewalk, the person of lower social standing (generally the younger person) should show respect to the other person by moving out of their way.  The "game" is that older Koreans will test this on purpose.

I've come across this more than a few times on my recent runs.  I'll be running down the sidewalk and an older Korean will deliberately move into my path, expecting me to show them respect by moving out of their way.  Well guess what old Korean, if you are going to deliberately move into my path, I WILL RUN YOU OVER!  Don't get me wrong, I try to be respectful to everyone I come into contact with but I refuse to play this ridiculous game.

It happens often... I can recall three instances in the past two weeks.  My favorite instance of this was on my last run.  There was an old man who saw me coming and moved onto my side of the sidewalk.  I kindly moved over.  But then he moved over AGAIN to get into my path.  Really?!  I waved and yelled "Get out of my way!" but he didn't move, so I plowed into him and then mentally gave myself a high-five.

Funny thing is, I know I'm going to miss crazy stuff like this when we move out of Korea :)

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"How old would you be if you didn't know how old you were?"
~Satchel Paige

Folk Village Revisited

In May of last year, Johnnie, his sister, and I spent a day at the Korean Folk Village.  I blogged about it here and here.  The Korean Folk Village is near Suwon and is a living history museum that highlights Korea's past and traditional folk culture.  There are over 250 traditional houses and buildings, arenas for performances, souvenir shops and restaurants, and gardens all in a beautiful outdoor environment.  It's a great place to experience traditional Korea so I took my mom and aunt there for a visit.

Near the entrance are some stone structures covered with rope that has pieces of paper tied it.  The sign in the photo below says:

REALIZATION OF WISHES
At this place, you can write your wishes and hopes for you, your families and people whom you love on traditional Korean papers, hang them on straw ropes and make wishes.
Also, the collection box here will be donated to UNICEF and used for saving children of the world.
Contribute money and make your wishes here.




Many of the buildings were getting their roofs re-thatched.  We were careful not to get our clothes dirty :)


There is a buddhist temple in the Village that you can visit.  Just make sure you take off your shoes before going inside!


One of the performances to watch at the Folk Village is a traditional Korean wedding ceremony.  The bride's beautifully embroidered outfit is my favorite part.  It is a very involved ceremony with a lot of standing, bowing, and kneeling.



Another performance is the Equestrian Feats which is really a show of balance and strength.  The horses galloped around the small circular arena while the performers on their backs hung off the sides of the saddle, did handstands, and shot arrows.


Acrobatics on a Tight-Rope is a fun performance to watch.  The old performer had incredible balance, flexibility and a crotch of steel.   He was quick and graceful, holding only a large fan for balance.


The final performance to see is the Farmer's Dance.  This dance is one of the oldest dance forms in Korea and was traditionally performed during planting and harvesting, stemming from early records of farmers working to the beat of percussion instruments.  It is characterized by fast-paced music and gravity-defying acrobatic movements. Dancers have long white streamers attached to their hats which they twirl in beat with the music.





I took some video of the dancing and the horse performances.  You can watch it below or on YouTube.





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“Culture is the widening of the mind and of the spirit.”
~Jawaharlal Nehru